I've got a PVR who's HD is getting pretty full (90%+) with programs I'll want to watch some day ... so I was thinking about coping some of the 'Keeper' programs onto DVD which meant buying a spool of DVD's.... but then needed to check if I needed DVD-R or DVD+R disks. (It is DVD-R)
I remember the problems of working with floppies, and the advertised claims that DVDs would outlast me in storage, so I took to using them for archival storage - until I found the ones I had burned were deteriorating just a year later.
I find commercially-produced DVDs hold up very well indeed, but home-burned ones, not so much. Not only that, but each single-layer DVD holds just a bit under 5GB, meaning that I was amassing a LOT of burned DVDs.
I switched to an external hard drive, and never looked back. A 1 TB drive that I can hold in the palm of my hand can hold as much as roughly 200 DVDs, it's faster to write on/to, and it lasts for a very, very long time.
My newest desktop build doesn't even have an optical drive, and I took the optical drives out of my laptops to replace them with a second hard drive. I put one of those optical drives in an external USB case for that maybe once a year when I want to use one.
And I don't miss them, even a little bit.
TJ
These things worked better if you understood the "lore" of optical media.
And there were specialist web sites with the information you needed.
For example, when a new optical drive model would come out, someone
would do a review. They would use their Liteon drive to do an "error scan"
after the new drive did a burn, and see what "characteristic" showed itself.
Optical media is never error free. A good burn has a flat characteristic, and
around 10 errors per unit. Optical media has powerful error correction,
and the technology influenced how error correction was done on SSD drives
(the techniques are much more powerful than a Fire Code on a hard drive ECC).
Bad burns, sometimes, "near the end of the disc", the scan would reveal
a rising error rate, that would rise to 10^4 and at that point, the drive
would start to lose the ability to stay locked to the groove. The drive "goes
crazy" when this happens, as the firmware is designed to make that the
number one priority, ignoring all other interfaces (such as the eject button).
Bad burns happen, when the drive does not have the media tag in its repertoire.
Some brands of drive, would "rush to market" with about half the media tags,
and a flash upgrade was available later, to add in the missing tags. But other
brands, might never produce new firmwares. The drives started with one
file, but later there were two things to flash in the drive.
There were also bootleg firmwares, for Region Free and removal of Rip Lock.
I removed a Rip Lock on one of my drives.
If you do an optical disc burn, and it has the rising error characteristic
at the end of it, chances are, this is a disc that is going to fail to work
well a year from now. It is unlikely that the disc will remain "stable forever"
with that characteristic present.
The retailer does not normally make the discs. A third party makes the discs,
in a rather large factory. Tao Yuden, for example, had a good reputation
among hobbyists, and made good media. But they didn't have the distribution
muscle of some of the contenders. Where I live, the odds of TY being on a
shelf was just about zero. What I used, was Ritek, which worked "just fine"
and it retailed as Maxell or Fujitsu, or a few other fake brands I forget.
The second last lot of disc blanks I bought, were "Philips", which is
a fake name, and the discs are actually made by CMC, and not all their
media is a keeper. I still have some of those left.
I wasn't exactly pleased that this topic involved "lore" and "hobbyists",
but in the end, I got decent results. The only media with a serious loss
problem, was some Memorex CDRW, in which one disc was so bad, that
it was completely transparent after three months. And if you shoved
that disc in the drive, the drive would ignore the eject button while
it tried to find the spiral groove. Miserable stuff. Nothing ever approached
being that bad, since. Some of the blanks burned, but did not pass a verify
(which means a scan would have shown 10^4 error rate). But the transparent one,
you couldn't even burn it... as there was nothing to burn. It looked like
a Polycarbonate disc.
Pressed discs are an entirely different process than write-able media.
The write-able media can be "write once", or it can be "write multiple".
On the RW write multiple, there is an "erase" command to prepare the
media for another write session. Whereas the write-once, you cannot
erase that stuff. As for the erase command, some situations allow
"Quick Erase", other situations demand "Full Erase" which takes forever.
And I don't really know what the trigger is for those. You can ask for a
Quick, and the software can tell you "piss off, I'm doing a Full".
BluRay disc blanks, are available up to 100GB capacity. Each blank
was quite expensive (whatever the market will bear), so there was
no particular savings to be had over usage of DVD when first introduced.
And now, the topic is all but irrelevant, as there is less media
available out there. There aren't many BluRay drives left (I never
bought one of those, could not think of a use-case).
In a way, it was like its own little hobby. Like stamp collecting.
Paul